by Maj. Geo. (Duff) Mitchell, MC,CD,UE,

Ontario's Glengarry County is studded with 20 bronze plaques along its highways and byways which give us fascinating glimpses of its early history as well as its Highland and Loyalist pioneers who settled there from 1784.
Some of these plaques, however, are decades old and are based on one or two old records rather than on comprehensive research. Some bronze plaques shroud untold stories and unsung heroes. One such plaque is that memorializing the “MacLeod Settlement” It is found two miles east of Kirkhill on the old Dalkeith Laggan concession road. (now provincial #24). It is mounted on an impressive stone cairn erected by Clan MacLeod Society of Glengarry at Lot 18, 6th Concession, Lochiel Township. This lot was first granted to Alexander MacLeod (1769-1850), the youngest of the five organizers who shepherded 40 Highland families from Scotland to Canada in 1793-1794. (See appended text of plaque.)
The MacLeod Settlement plaque was unveiled before provincial and local dignitaries on August 1St, 1965 by Alexander's 6th generation descendant. Provincial representatives included the late “Prof. G.F.G. Stanley, Kingston Archeological and Historic Sites Board,” (later New Brunswick's Lieutenant- Governor), who gave the principal address, and Hugh P. MacMillan of “Toronto Dept. of Public Records and Archives,” who made introductory remarks at the dedication ceremonyⁱ.
Alexander MacLeod became recognized as a prime leader of Lochiel's “MacLeod Settlement” after being commissioned as a captain of the 2nd Regiment; Glengarry Militia, in the War of 1812. He was instrumental in founding the county's second Presbyterian congregation, and obtaining by 1820 a Gaelic-speaking, Church of Scotland minister for what later became St. Columba Church. But the plaque that memorializes Alexander's leadership neglects the heroic roles of four other men in establishing the MacLeod Settlement. This neglect can be traced to the source used for the wording on the plaque. It is based largely on Captain Alexander's unsuccessful petition for a leader's 1000-acre grant in 1838. By then he was the only surviving organizer of the five who had directed the MacLeod emigration.
Hardship was the common lot of the Highland men and Women who emigrated to Glengarry, but few endured the misfortunes and setbacks that befell this MacLeod emigration. The survival of 36 out of the 40 families, who eventually reached their new Glenelg (later Kirldaill) in upper Lancaster (from 1818-Lochiel) Township, owes much to the experience and tenacity of all the expedition leaders, but especially two Loyalist comrades-in-arms whose remarkable contributions receive scant mention in Glengarry historiesⁱⁱ.

The two stalwarts, Archibald 'King' McGillivray (c1756-1836), my ancestor, and 'Big' Alexander MacLeod (1756-1836), had emigrated to New York colony, probably settling in the upper Hudson River valley with their kin as young men, before the American Revolution. When colonial discontent burst into full-blown rebellion both enlisted in the 71st Regiment of Foot (Fraser's Highlanders) soon after it reached New York from Britain in 1776. 'Big' Alex's father, Norman(d) MacLeod (c1733-1794), had also served in the British forces aboard Royal Navy ships blockading the St. Lawrence to prevent arms and supplies being smuggled to American rebels.ⁱⁱⁱ

Like its forerunner the Old 78th Fraser Highlanders, which fought so well at Louisbourg and Quebec under General Wolfe in 1759-1760, the 71st gained fame campaigning from Brooklyn, NY, to Savannah, Georgia, and back north until October 1781. Then, outnumbered three to one by 7,000 Frehch and 12,000 American troops near Yorktown, Virgjnia, the British forces under Lord Cornwallis capitulated and were interned in camps, albeit with their personal weapons for game hunting, These Highlanders suffered severe hardships; “in less than 12 months they had marched and countermarched nearly 2,000 miles ….” With peace concluded in 1783, the 71st. Regiment was soon disbanded with honours at Perth, Scotland, but prisoners of war such as 'Big' Alex and likely comrade Archie, awaited discharge there in mid-May 1784.^iv
Returning to Inverness-shire, 'Big' Alex MacLeod soon wed Jessie MacPhee — a sister of emigrant John ‘Gibraltar' MacPhee (1760-1847) who had fought at the siege of Gibraltar in 1782. Archie returned to kin on north Mull, Argyllshire, and to court Catherine McLean (c1768-c1790), probably of the nearby Torloisk clan branch.^v They married at Ballochvoy near Tobermory in December 1785, but daughter Ann McGilvray (sic) was born at a nearby hamlet the following October 9th, and son, Donald, at Kilbeag in the fall of 1788.^vi A widower soon after, Archie likely re-visited the mainland to discuss prospects in Canada with 'Big' Alex.

In 1791, according to their denied petitions, for land and Loyalist status of April 1834, Archie and 'Big' Alex, as veterans of America and fluent in English, were picked to explore Glengarry's frontier for the MacLeod emigration that ultimately sailed with 12 MacLeod, five McGillivray and 19 other clan families. The next year the two veterans sailed back to Scotland, rejoining the other emigration leaders — Kenneth MacLeod (1745-1815) of Moyle, a tacksman of Glenelg parish, his young son (later Captain) Alexander MacLeod (1769-1850); and 'Big' Norman MacLeod (c1733-1794) of Glenelg's Sandaig, second cousin to Kenneth — to ready the expedition for Sea. 'Big' Norman's naval experience doubtless helped in the planning and aboard ship, but late in the long voyage he became ill and died shortly after reaching Glengarry. His wife, Mary McRae (c1734-c1793), died before the departure. (See Highland maps). Some 150 men, women and children set sail from Glenelg's port on 15 June 1793, aboard a ship chartered by the co-leaders at Greenoch. Mid-way across the Atlantic a violent storm so damaged the ship that it was forced to return to Greenoch. On August 2^nd the families were transferred to the brig Argyle of 145 tonnes. Barely four days at sea, the Argyle lost her upper masts and sailing in a violent gale and was forced into Lamlash, Isle of Arran, for repairs before finally making a stormy fall crossing of the Atlantic. (Built in New Brunswick in 1789, it mounted two guns, but its crew of 12 may have been from Greenoch.)
it is hard to grasp the hardships these would-be settlers endured over the next three months at sea in a small vessel. Crammed below decks in rough, unheated spaces, fetid from foul air, so that some nursing mothers, children, aged men and women succumbed to the haydships and were buried at sea. Finally, braving a “severe snowstorm and excessively cold weather off Prince Edward Island,” the Argyle limped into Charlottetown on November 2^nd with a foot of ice encasing its deck.^vii In May 1794 most of the MacLeod contingent set sail again, although a few decided to settle near Charlottetown. The 115 or so aboard schooner Charlot reached Quebec on June 3^rd and at Montreal transferred to bateaux, portaging past the St. Lawrence rapids up to Glengarry. The few more emigrants who set off a weeklater on he schooner John, received their Glengarry lots almost two months later. On arrival each family received a 200-acre lot certification, the first ones dated 24 June, 1794. They begin with the five key organizers in this sequence for Lochiel Norman(d) - Lot 27.7th Concession; Kenneth - L.19.7; his son Alexander - L18.6; 'Big' Alexander - L33.7 — all MacLeods; — and Archibald McGilvrie (sic) Lot 17,6. 'Big' Alex delayed settling on his lot until his dying father was buried in the Lancaster cemetery. This Archives of Ontario (PAO) record is referenced in The People of Glengany.^viii
Kenneth's son Alexander MacLeod saw his wife die on the voyage, but their three sons survived and he was secondly married in December 1796 to Margaret (Peggy) Cameron (c1775-c1835+). She was born on Sir John Johnson's Mohawk lands about 1775 to John Cameron (1725-1824) of Clunes (UEL) and Mary Cameron (1739-1831) of Glen Nevis, Scotland, who gained fame safeguarding their rose bush, off which the 'Loyalist Rose' was developed, from -the UK to Kingsborough, NY, and then to Cornwall, Upper Canada.
For Archie 'King' and “Big' Alex, the landing in Glengarry would have been an occasion of much relief and joy, tempered with sad thoughts of those who had died on the way or arrived mortally ill like 'Big' Norman. The two veterans had crossed the Atlantic to the New World five times in 20 years, as settlers, soldiers and then as scouts and organizers of the MacLeod emigration.

Glengarry tradition has it that Archie 'King' first got his nickname because of his leadership role with these MacLeod emigrants. In Gaelic 'king' is used to denote a boss or foreman. The abilities of Archie 'King' as a leader were recognized soon after he arrived on the Glengarry frontier, when he was named road-master to supervise the first all-weather road construction across the county.
A major undertaking was construction of a military and service road that Upper Canada's Governor, John. Graves Simcoe, had called for. The road later called the King's Road was opened through the province west and east of York. It crosses Glengarry along a stony ridge through Charlottenburgh and Lancaster Townships, avoiding the latter's swamps to the south. (Because the new arrivals included two other Archibald MacGillivrays in Glengarry, Archie's new overseer's job reinforced his nickname.)
This King's Road was a major project not only for defensive needs but also as access to grist and other mills so vital to the pioneers. The Montreal-York section was not fully opened until 1812 but it was the main road across Glengarry until after the First World War and remains an important provincial Highway #18.
Archie 'King' likely purchased the 'front' 30-acre section of Lot 1.7 Charlottenburgh in 1810 because he was re-assigned to oversee construction of a Military Road that ran north from Lancaster town through Alexandria (now Highway 34). These two main roads cross at Brown House Corner, so named for a popular stage-coach hotel diagonally opposite the log home of Archie 'King' and Catherine (McIntosh) McGillivray. The War of 1812 meant Archie 'King' was called for duty with the 2nd Glengarry Militia Regiment in Captain Alexander's Company. The company included a subaltern, ensign and two sergeants, Finlay McIntosh and Archie 'King', the senior Non-Commissioned Officer.^x Then aged about 56, Sergeant Archibald 'King' McGillivray would have played a key role in MacLeod's Company as he personally knew all ranks from his long service as road-master.

Loyalists and their descendants from the MacLeod emigration have left their marks upon the Glengarry scene.
Archie 'King' named a second son Donald in April 1799, so the first born on Mull had likely died by then, but sister Ann wed Duncan MacMillan(1782-1841) in January 1809 while wintering at her father's assigned Lochiel lot. Rev. John Bethune recorded this happy event, as he had also done for Archie and Catherine's baptisms, at St. Andrew's Church, in Williamstown. Duncan's half-brother, Donald 'Cairbh' MacMillan (1766-1854), like Duncan, had emigrated from Lochaber's Glenpeanbeg to Lochiel Township in 1794. In 1810 my ancestors Ann and Duncan bought Lot 25.6th Lochiel from Alexander 'Cooper' MacMillan (c1750-1817), a Loyalist from Johnson's Kortright Patent, NY. In 1797 Donald 'Cairbh' wed Sus(h)annah McMillan (c1776-1859), daughter of Catherine (MacDonell) and Donald McMillan (UEL). Their ten children all married, including sons 'Long' Donald and 'Big' Angus who were succeeded by large MacMillan dynasties.
The only son of Ann (McGillivray) and Duncan MacMillan, became known as 'Duncan the Hook' MacMillan (c1819-1896) when he lost his right arm at age 28 in a threshing accident. He married Ellen MacLeod (1828-1907), a daughter of Alasdair, Kenyon Township, and they settled on his father's Lochiel S½Lot 25.6th, where they had 11 children. With a hook he “could chop wood, plough, mow, and was considered the best teamster in the county.” Latterly he carried the mail- between Kirkhill and Alexandria. “He was a very congenial spirit, one of the good old stock, always kind, generous and neighborly ….” There were 120 carriages in his funeral procession — one of the largest ever held at St. Columba Church.^xi
Ann and Duncan's daughter Catherine MacMillan (1815-1866) married John Munro (1794-18664), an emigrant blacksmith from Ross-shire, Scotland. They were wed at Breadalbane, Lochiel, in December 1834, with her uncle Old John 'King' as a witness, who was to receive his father's 30-acre Lot 1.7 Charlottenburgh in October 1835. The other 170-acre section of this lot north of the King's Road was sold in 1840 to lawyer, later Ontario's first premier, John Sandfield Macdonald for £190 or $950 then. (In 1834 Archie 'King' sought extra land and Loyalist status, but officials stalled two years only to deny his claim in 1836. About 80 that fall, Archie deeded most of his Lochiel lot to son, Donald 'King' McGillivray (1799-1877).
After their first child was born, John Munro set up his smithy at MacGillivray Bridge, Charlottenburgh, midway between Martintown and Williamstown. Blacksmiths, like coopers, were important to pioneers of that era. My great grandfather, Duncan Monroe (1842-1936) was the second son born at MacGillivray Bridge in a family of ten. After junior school there he lived with his maternal grandmother Ann and learned Gaelic in upper grades at Kirkhill, but quit school at 14 to clerk in a store at Buckingham, Quebec, for seven years, where he learned French. Settling in Cornwall he was store clerk for 13 years with ex-mayor, Wm. Mattice. He then opened an insurance business which expanded across ten counties in Ontario and Quebec. After 30 years he was “famous as the Insurance King of Eastern Ontario ….” For over 60 years after he died his old firm retained his name. He was a Dunvegan Volunteers during the Fenian Raids of 1866 and 1870; he received a medal and 160 acres of now profitable bush land near New Liskeard, Ontario.
Archie's son, Donald 'King' McGillivray (1799-1877), was pioneering on Lot 17.6th Lochiel when he wed Mary MacMillan (1804-1884) in March 1822. She was a sister of 'Big' Angus MacMillan and with her 10 children she, too, began a dynasty. The present log house is believed to have been built about 1830, but has long since been sheathed over, inside and out. This vintage homestead is still with the 'King' MacGillivray family and what tales it could tell! Direct descendant Anne MacGillivray still occupies it with her mother, née Ruth MacGillivray, who celebrated her 90th birthday October 2002 at the old Manse opposite Kirkhill United Church. With many MacGillivray and other kin present, as well as the presentation of a fine plaque from the Township mayor, it Was a very special occasion. We only regretted that Mrs. Myrtle (McGillivray) Stanger of Drumheller, Alberta, the chief chronicler of 'King' descendants, Was not with us. Myrtle turned 90 in April 2003.
John Duncan MacLeod (1901-1968), a direct descendant of 'Big' Alex, from Dunvegan, is, Kenyon Township, graduated from Kemptville College. He held senior appointments with Ontario's Department of Agriculture until 1948 when he returned to buy a Kenyon farm and opened a seed-cleaning plant.
John D., as he was known, was the prime mover in forming the Clan MacLeod Society of Glengarry (later of Canada), and initiated preparation of The MacLeods of Glengarry, 1st Edition (1971). Revised Edition (1993) has a wealth of family history edited by Madeleine McCrimmon, also a MacLeod emigration's descendant. John's inspiration and advice were sorely missed after he was killed by a tractor in 1968.
About 1840 'Big' Alex's grandson Roderick (Rory) (1812-1879) and his brother Norman MacLeod (1810-1889) moved to share Lot 25.9th Kenyon. Norman, who had married Captain Alexander's daughter Mary MacLeod (1812-1875), became a captain of the 4^th Glengarry Militia during the 1837 Rebellion. Their son Alex served during the Fenian Raids with the 39^th Battalion.
Roderick (Rory)'s son, Duncan Rory MacLeod (1854-1908), wed Jessie Ann McCuaig (1871-1952). They had five children, of whom John D. was the most prominent in Glengarry's history.
It would be heartwarming to think that, with the new millennium, perhaps the time has come to erect a new plaque to supplement that on the “MacLeod Settlement” cairn. It would recognize the roles played by Sergeant Archibald 'King' McGillivray, `Big' Alex, `Big' Norman and cousin Kenneth MacLeod, in ensuring the success of the emigration and the parts played by their descendants in building a prosperous Glengarry. Failing that initiative, perhaps these brief comments will serve to revive interest in Upper Canada's Loyalist story by making descendants more aware of their fascinating and heroic heritage. MacLeod Settlement: In 1793 some forty families, including members of several clans, emigrated from Glenelg, Scotland, under the leadership of Alexander MacLeod and landed at St. John's Island (now PEI) The following year they came to Glengarry County and petitioned for land. In August, 1794 the majority were authorized to occupy 200 Acres each in the vicinity of Kirkhill, which was for many years known as Glenelg. Alexander MacLeod who was located on this property in 1794, was instrumental in founding on of the earliest Presbyterian parishes in Upper Canada here in Lochiel Township. During the War of 1812 he served as a Captain in the 2^nd Regiment of Glengarry Militia and died March 4, 1850. Archeological and Historic Sites Board of Ontario. Erected by Clan MacLeod Society of Glengarry 1965.

ⁱ Clan MacLeod Society of Glengarry, The MacLeods of Glengarry 1793-1993, (Revised edition), 33-34. It irks this writer and descendant of Archie 'King' McGillivray that no clan representative was included in this 1965 ceremony — not even the Cairn committee's treasurer, Wm.J. MacGillivray, or closest neighbour, Donald A. (Archie King) McGillivray. The Seaway Valley Tourist Council Centre has lists and maps of historic sites at Box 884, Cornwall, ON, K6H 577.
ⁱⁱ Ibid, 24-25, 29-30, and 158.
ⁱⁱⁱ Ibid., 24-25, 29-30, and 158: LDS IGI for INV.SCT lists Normand McLeod wed to Mary McRae on 17 June 1752, at inverness, INV., where their son Alexander was torn in 1756 at the “town of Inverness”, in the County of Inverness: as per his 71st discharge certificate.
^iv The Macleods of Glengarry 1793-1971, (1st Ed.), 44-53; and History of the British Army, Chap 16 The Old 71st Regiment Fraser Highlanders, 1775-83,1138-152.
^v Torloisk village, Kilninian & Kilmore parish, gained fame when Allan MacLean (1725-1798), a son of Torloisk's 5^th laird, became Bgen commanding the Royal Highland Emigrants (later the 84^th Regiment) in the Revolutionary War. See Dictionary of Canadian Biography, Vol IV, 503-504. In 1986 my wife and I visited Torloisk's attractive Kilninian Kirk, then unaware of my ancestor's Kilmore Kirk a few miles off In Dervaig — also noted for its Bellachroy Hotel and Mull Little Theatre.
^vi Kilninian & Kilmore, Mull, OPR 544/1 (LDS Film #1041080), 42 & 44; and J.G Bartholomew The Survey Gazetteer of the British Isles; Kilbeag was possibly an earlier name for today's Dervaig and its fine Church of Scotland first built in 1754. The U.C. 1851/52 Census of Lochiel Township lists Ann as born in Scotland c1786, so all Ann(e)s MCGilvray (+ other variants) in Argyll - and Inverness-shires were searched in the Mormon IGI and no other Ann was born to an Archibald in that decade.
^vii Captain Alexander MacLeod's quotes are from his Upper Canada Land Petition (d/31 Dec 1837 oh NAC Reel #2139, Bundle #21, Document 46); PEI Archives. St. John's is. List of Shipping, Inwards Accession #2557 Item I, per Mrs. Mary (MacMillan) Beaton; and Grant MacGilrivray, “The Daring Glenelg Settlers of 1794,” in The Clansman, Apr/May 1993, 16.
^viii “Return of Sundry persons who have received land by order of the Board for the Eastern District….” found on PAO RG1 C-1-4 Vol. 9, p.1; Marianne McLean, The People of Glengarry Highlanders In Transition, 1745-1820). 123, and Endnote 111 which cites this PAO record; author McLean personally provided this petitioners' list little resemblance to MacLeods 2^nd Ed. pp. 35-36.
^ix John Cameron served with 1KRRNY and then as a British spy during the 1776-1783 war years. Evicted post-war, his 
family trekked north to settle on Lot 6.4th of Cornwall Township. but not without their prized rose shoots — claimed to date 
back to Damascus in Crusader times. The rose flowers, stalks, leaves and hips were vital to pioneers as medicines, tea, etc. He lived into his 100^th and wife Mary into her 92^nd year! Their Cameron Cemetery is now in Cornwall City just east of McConnell Avenue and on South Branch Road. Regrettably a Gravel pit is encroaching on this sacred Loyalist soil.
^x Clan MacLeod Soc., op. cit., (2^nd Ed.), 27; and War of 1812 Militia Paylists (War Office 13, Glengarry 2^nd, Vol. 3681), NAC Reel #B-3161, pp. 412 & 414.
^xi Miles McLeod's obituary in Alexandria News dated 11 Dec 1896; published in 1995, my family history, Our Kindred Spirits, tells much more about Ann (McGillivray) and Duncan MacMillan's descendants. (This history won the top award of the Ottawa OGS Gene-O-Rama in 1996. Its editor James Robb, BA,BJ,MA, is an Ottawa author, who was long a copy editor and contributor at The Ottawa Citizen..)